The night before, the country’s preeminent primatologist Dr. Emily Otali had briefed me on what to expect during my trek into the jungle, while staying at Kibale Lodge—the newest property in Volcanoes ...

Like seasoned hosts, a convivial herd of elephants wanders out of the brush just minutes after our charter plane touches down at a private airfield in southern Kenya. Kimana, an area triangulated by ...